Sitewide Search
Alternate Currency
Hairstyle Guides
Glamour Blog
More Info
Subscribe
Marcel Waving - How It's Done (Circa 1930) pt.3posted on 18 January 2010 | posted in 1930s Hairstyle Design | (0) Comments
Waving Bandeaux and Parted Dressings. When the operator has mastered the fundamentals of Marcel waving—the art can be fairly quickly mastered with conscientious and assiduous practice—lie must turn his attention to the execution of the various styles of waving that are appropriate for the different coi jures. The pompadour mode, as above described, can be considered as the basis of all styles. It is necessary, however, to indicate in a brief manner the methods used to wave bandeaux and parted dressings, variations of which modes are so fashionable in these days of the shingled head. In the days when long hair was the prevailing fashion, it was sometimes necessary to combine two styles of waving on one head. Many clients favoured a bandeau, so that when the hair was put up, the front and sides of the coiffure presented an appearance somewhat out of keeping with the chignon and back-dressing. In such cases, it was necessary for the hairdresser to separate the back hair, waving it after the manner explained for the pompadour style, but leaving the front for separate and different treatment. The back hair is waved first, then the front portion, which becomes a bandeau, is suitably parted, and the waves are made parallel to this parting. Most of the modern shingle modes demand similar treatment, the waves having an appropriate adjustment to the parting. Bandeaux can be made to appear flat or bulging, by the simple expedient of holding the hair low or high whilst waving it; hair well lifted up with the waves rolled in deeply will produce the bulgy, or full, effect, as shown in Fig. 17.  Whether the waves are to be flat or full, the hair is first parted in the correct position for the final dressing. The first wave is made as close as possible to the parting. Frequently, oblique waves will be desired for the bandeau, the direction of such waves being shown in Fig. 18.  Flat bandeaux are obtained by first making a cross-parting from ear to ear and then a middle-parting leading from the cross-parting down to the centre of the forehead. Fig. 19 clearly shows the idea and the correct disposition of the waves.  The oblique style of waving, above referred to, is commenced by waving the first strand, as shown in Fig. 19, and then each succeeding wave is turned a little. This causes a slight deviation, the first wave being horizontal to the parting, and each succeeding wave being a trifle out of truth, that is to say, the end of each wave nearest the crown of the head is a trifle wider than its width on the forehead. Thus the undulations become vertical on the temples, as in Fig. 18. This expedient of slightly turning the direction of the waves is not easy of accomplishment, and constant practice is necessary in order to obtain a satisfactory result. How to Wave a Shingle " Coiffure " There are two ways of waving a shingle coiffure. The first method is to curl all the short hair at the back and sides, and also the ends of the long hair, until there is a good foundation for a nice, deep wave. If it is desired that the hair at the sides should be waved, curl the hair well to the face, across the sides of the head, curl this and all the back hair in the underneath mode of curling. Having accomplished this part of the work, commence by waving the top hair first, according to the style desired; if the top is to be of the oblique, or slanting mode, or with a brushed-back effect, make a small wave near the parting, and follow on with the waving, always keeping the waves to the outline desired. When the top hair is thoroughly waved, the side hair is then attended to—that which has been previously curled. Take hold of this curly hair with the comb in the left hand, wave the hair downwards to the end, and, unless the client desires the ends to be extra curly, the waving and curling will be complete. Finally take a hair-brush with a small amount of brilliantine on it, and brush the hair thoroughly into position; then fasten the long hair with a clasp. The other method of waving a shingle coiffure is to do all the waving first, and afterwards curl all the ends to the appropriate style. The difference in the two styles is that the second method, or dressing, lies much closer to the head than the first, which would produce a very full dressing. Correct Width and Depth of Waves It is important that the operator should study the nature of the hair and the general hearing of each client before commencing to wave. Many dressings are spoilt, or rendered ludicrous, because the waves, though accurately produced, are either too wide or too narrow. A tall and well-proportioned lady would look ridiculous with small waves; indeed, all heavy heads of hair, whether the client be tall or short, should have wide and deep waves. On the other hand, a diminutive client appears top-heavy if the waves are made wide, and are loosely formed. Most lady clients will decide for themselves as to the kind of waves they want, but in some cases the operator must tactfully suggest that the desired style would not be suitable, and that, as an artist, he should be allowed to form the waves appropriate to the hair and suitable to the client. The depth of the waves must also be determined by the nature of the dressing and the appearance of the client. In the majority of cases it is necessary to wave the front hair fairly deeply, but as nowadays waving is used principally as an enchantment of the coiffure, rather than to produce an illusion of full waviness, a few thicknesses of waved hair is normally sufficient. It is not now necessary, except in rare cases, to wave every hair with precision, as Marcel originally did. The number of waves to be formed cannot be indicated with certainty, since it depends on the width, depth, and the disposition of the waved strands in the final coiffure. The client's wishes, the dictates of fashion, and the price paid will determine these details to a large extent. It is sufficient to stress that an artistic finish should never be sacrificed for ulterior considerations. In the case of long hair, it is rarely necessary to wave the entire length of the growth. Where the hair does not exceed 18 in. or 20 in. in length, it is wiser to wave almost- to the end, and well curl the points. For all practical purposes, however, it is sufficient to wave from 12 in. to i5 in. of extremely long hair. In conclusion, let it be understood that the operator who desires to become an expert Marcel waver must practise assiduously. A supple wrist may lose its facility through neglect of this rule of practice. PDF book publications covering all aspects of vintage hairstyles through 30s, 40s and 50s are available in our Retrobelles Store
Disclaimer - Yes, unfortunately we have to state it. This Article is meant for Historical reference only. Advice given on Lotions, Potions and any Working Practices should be viewed with caution. Before following any procedure stated in this article you should seek the advise of a current, qualified professional. Share this blog entry:
 Digg it |  del.icio.us |  Stumble it! |  Reddit |  Furl
|
||
Comments ( 0 ) - Add Your Comment |
||
Home |
How To Order |
Contact Us |
Glamour Blog |
Shopping Basket |
Policies |
FAQ |
| template design by : NodeThirtyThree