Marcel Waving - How It's Done (Circa 1930) pt.2

posted on 17 January 2010 | posted in 1930s Hairstyle Design  | (0) Comments

Marcel Waving - How It's Done (Circa 1930) pt.2 Modern Method of Marcel Waving (Still circa 1930)

As already indicated, Marcel waving is based on certain fundamental rules, and, although many ingenious attempts have been made from time to time to get away from these fundamentals, the hairdresser who desires to execute natural-looking waves, imperatively comes back to the basic principles of Marcel.

Nevertheless, what with the changing modes of fashion, and the inevitable developments in craftsmanship, certain modifications and extensions in the methods of producing the Marcel wave have taken place during the last ten years or so. In order that the operator may be well-grounded in the art of waving, it is necessary now to explain the latest methods;
the operator will doubtless appreciate that the differences are those of practice details, rather than of essentials.

For all practical purposes, it is desirable to first demonstrate the method of waving a full head of hair without a paring, that is to say, involving a pompadour front. As all hairdressers of experience well know, the operator who has once mastered the art of waving a pompadour is afterwards able to easily adapt himself to the many variations in hairdressing styles. The crux of the art of Marcel waving is to be found in the pompadour style now to be explained.

The client should first be comfortably seated, and, unless the operator is tall, it may be necessary for the lady to rest her head on the head-rest of the chair, in order to wave the pompadour front. It is more acceptable to place oneself behind the client, and the lady may be required to recline slightly, so that the top hair may be waved. The hair is combed thoroughly, and it is correctly placed before waving is commenced. The irons must not be made too hot lest burning of the hair results. By with experience, the operator will be able to judge the required temperature, but at first it may be advisable to test the irons on a piece of paper.

First Phase : Lifting the Hair

The operator first takes the dressing comb, which must not leave his hands during the whole process, and inserts it into the frontal strand of hair, as shown in Fig. 9. The strand, as it is lifted, must be drawn in an opposite direction to the natural grain, that is to say, if the hair has a tendency towards the right, then draw it slightly towards the left.
Marcel wave 9A
The strand of hair is then taken, and held fairly close to the head by means of the index and middle fingers of the left hand, as shown in Fig. 10.
Marcel wave 10A
The operator will use his fingers to divide the strand horizontally into two, retaining between the fingers just sufficient hair for waving purposes. This piece is transferred to the fingers of the right Band, as shown in Fig. 11.
Marcel wave 11
It is important that the strand about to be waved should be of sufficient thickness to take the irons, but thin enough for the operator's fingers to be visible through the hair.

Having in this manner prepared the hair, the operator lightly combs the strand, which is again held in the left hand, as in Fig. 10. The irons are held in the right hand, and the dressing comb, placed with its back towards the client's forehead, is held between the thumb and index finger of the left hand, as shown in Fig. 12.
Marcel wave 12

Second Phase : Making the Wave

The hair, held firmly in the left hand, is now ready to receive the heated irons. A second pair of irons should always be on the heater ready for use, and immediately the others are cold a change of irons should be made.

First 'open the irons wide, and be assured that the groove is underneath. Then slide the grooved prong under the strand of hair in such a manner that the bottom of the groove is not quite parallel with the head, but slightly raised towards the operator. The irons are then closed upon the hair, using the second and third fingers to ensure a tight grip. As the irons are closing they should be turned slightly, using a screw-like movement; this gives the necessary roll, and the irons enclosed in the hair are brought as near the forehead as possible, but not close enough to cause a burn on the skin. The irons are then sharply forced upwards, drawing them slightly to the right, so as to cause resistance, whilst the free hair is drawn in the opposite direction, as shown in Fig. 12.

The irons, of course, must be held tightly, and must not be allowed to slip along the hair.

It should be noted that the preliminary movement just described produces only half a wave, the left edge of the groove imprinting a fold of the first wave proper. The first wave proper must hear towards the client's left, and is, therefore, designated the left wave.

The irons are not yet withdrawn from the hair, but they are slightly opened and pushed a little farther on, and, by means of an unscrewing movement, are pressed over the crest previously formed.

The operator's left hand must hold the hair firmly, but should be supple enough to allow the irons to be moved. The irons are now in a position for the formation of the first complete wave. The right side of the groove (the side farthest away from the operator) must now be placed exactly underneath the fold, or ridge, just made by the left side of the groove in the previous movement. Having placed the right side of the groove immediately underneath the fold as indicated—not an easy matter—the irons are gripped tightly together and rolled for half a turn towards the operator. The irons, in this movement, are pushed slightly towards the left, whilst the strand of hair held in the left-hand fingers is directed towards the right. Fig. 13 clearly illustrates this movement.
Marcel wave 13

Then, without changing the position of the left hand, the movement is ceased, and the irons are gradually opened and turned in a screw-like manner. The movement is now recommenced, the irons being held loosely, with the prong smoothing the hair as the irons are moved in a direction away from the scalp. Having previously determined the width of the wave, the irons are tightly closed when the required distance is reached. The irons should grip the hair with a screw-like movement as before, the irons being pushed all the while towards the left, and the hair held in the fingers pulled in the reverse direction. (See Fig. 14.)
Marcel wave 14
This movement, provided the irons are properly rolled and the hair well directed, completes the production of the first, or left-hand, wave.

The right-hand wave must now be formed; the irons on the completion of the left-hand wave should be in the position shown in Fig. 14. The irons are now gradually unrolled and opened, but are not taken out of the hair, unless, of course, they have become cold,: when the other pair should be brought into use. The irons are transferred to the other side of the second crest in the manner already described, excepting that now the left edge of the groove is the lower fold previously formed. (See Fig. 15.)
Marcel wave 15
The irons should be gripped tightly, and the hair rolled in order to produce the dip or hollow of the wave now being formed. As the hair is rolled, the irons must be drawn towards the right, and the hair held in the operator's fingers must be directed towards the left.

The first half of the right-hand wave is now produced, and the operator proceeds to complete the wave. The irons are now slightly opened again, and are moved gradually back for the same distance as for the previous wave. The irons are then gripped tightly and drawn towards the right, and the hair in the operator's fingers is directed towards the left, as in the first half of this wave. (See Fig. 16.)
Marcel wave 16
The hair is rolled as before, in order to complete the hollow of this right-hand wave. The wave is completed by placing the irons in the manner already described so as to form a fold. This time the right edge of the groove is replaced by the left edge of the groove, the right and left grooves being alternately placed as each wave is completed. A close study of Figs. 14, 15, and 16, will make this point perfectly clear to the operator.

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Disclaimer - Yes, unfortunately we have to state it.

ThisArticle is meant for Historical reference only. Advice given onLotions, Potions and any Working Practices should be viewed withcaution. Before following any procedure stated in this article youshould seek the advise of a current, qualified professional.

 
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