Marcel Waving - How It's Done (Circa 1930) pt.1

posted on 16 January 2010 | posted in 1930s Hairstyle Design  | (0) Comments

Marcel Waving - How It's Done (Circa 1930) pt.1 These were the GHD's of their day. Marcel waving Irons can be easily found. However, very few come with instructions on their use.

The Original Method of Marcel Waving

Marcel proceeded on the basis of, and took for his pattern, the prettiest kind of natural undulation, namely, the symmetrical and harmonious serpent-like wave, half-hollow and soft in appearance.
Marcel wave 1
Actually, a natural wave is a divided curl. This may be proved by taking a piece of curly hair and flattening it out. It will be observed that the curls, when divided by flattening become undulations in which each wave is equal in dimension to half a curl. Moreover, usually the waves will be symmetrical, but each separate wave, whilst preserving this symmetry, tends to an opposite direction, that is to say, one wave pulls left and the next pulls right, and so on. Thus naturally wavy hair is invariably "S" shape. The principle of dividing the curl is followed in permanent waving, and setting a permanent wave is merely dividing the curls produced by the heat into waves by means of the fingers. The principle laid down by Marcel is now incorporated in modern permanent waving, of which more will presently be said.

The operator is strongly advised to practise the "S" wave, and two diagrams (Figs. 2 and 3) have been included which illustrate the correct and incorrect shape of the wave respectively.
Marcel wave 2
The exact contour to be taken will be appreciated by the operator if he places a sixpence ( a UK coin 2cm in diameter) on the half curls made by the waves; it will be found that the coin just fits the undulation, first out and then in. The "S" wave and the sixpence will impress the idea upon the operator.

The irons required for Marcel waving are made in four sizes, viz. A for the roots, B and C for general use, and D for use on hair of very strong texture. Genuine Marcel irons are made only by the Maison Pelleray, and the name "Pelleray" stamped on every pair is a guarantee of good quality. The operator is strongly recommended to procure two pairs of B and C, and one pair each of A and D, as the minimum requirements so far as waving irons are concerned. Irons of inferior quality are usually ill-balanced, badly grooved, and are apt to damage the hair. According to the original directions of Marcel, the hair must be clean and perfectly dry in order to be successfully waved. The waving must invariably be commenced on the right side of the head. (See Fig. 4.)
Marcel wave 4a
Take a strand of top hair, not too heavy, and proceed so that the wave encircles the top of the ear. The undergrowth, or roots, must not be waved until the first top layer has been done. Marcel insisted upon each layer being separately and completely treated, so that the whole hair was eventually thoroughly waved. Fig. 4 shows the exact position of the hand holding the B irons in a correct manner, the groove always being underneath. The first wave is shaped by directing the hair from the bottom of the irons towards the top, holding the strand of hair by the left hand close up to the iron.

The second wave is obtained by sliding the iron along the strand of hair for a short distance, and directing the hair from the top of the irons towards the bottom—that is to say, the reverse of the first wave, the left hand always following the iron. (See Fig. 5.) Continue this movement wave by wave, directing the hair alternately first towards the top and then towards the bottom, until the end of the strand is reached.
Marcel wave 4
The first strand of hair having been done throughout its entire length, take the next and underneath strand, adding to it a small part of the already waved strand, so that it may act as a guide for the proper disposition of the waves, and proceed to wave it as previously explained. (See Fig. 6.)

Having finished the right side, the operator then proceeds to the top of the head, where strands of hair are taken in turn and waved, commencing at the forehead and waving backwards towards-the ends of the hair. (See Fig. 7.)
Marcel wave 5
On each occasion a small portion of previously waved hair should be taken up with the new strand, so that the operator has a continuous guide, and to ensure that the waves are regularly distributed.

The whole of the hair having been waved, it is necessary again to take up those strands immediately around the forehead, and apply the irons" (size A) near the roots. (See Fig. 8.)

This brings the wave nearer to the head, and effectually destroys that tendency to straightness so frequently observed near the forehead.
Marcel insisted upon the observance of three fundamental rules, viz.-
1. Always use the irons with the groove underneath.
2. Encircle the top of the ears with the waves.
3. Always add a small portion of the already waved strand to the following one, so that the waves are agreeably distributed and a correct- sequence secured.

PDF book publications covering all aspects of vintage hairstyles through 30s, 40s and 50s are available in our Retrobelles Store


Disclaimer - Yes, unfortunately we have to state it.

This Article is meant for Historical reference only. Advice given on Lotions, Potions and any Working Practices should be viewed with caution. Before following any procedure stated in this article you should seek the advise of a current, qualified professional.
 
Share this blog entry:

recommend a friendRecommend this blog entry to a friend

Digg Digg it | del.icio.us del.icio.us | stumbleupon Stumble it! | Reddit Reddit | Furl Furl


You can follow other blog entries via the RSS feed. You can also leave your own response. Site administrator reserves the right to reject any replies that are deemed inappropriate.

Comments ( 0 ) - Add Your Comment
 
Leave A Reply
Your Name*
Your Response*
Security Code
 code
Enter Above Security Code
* must complete
 
Website contents Copyright © Retrobelles.com 2008-2010